We thought coming back down would be much simpler. We were wrong. Descending uses an entirely different--and little used--group of muscles. The upper thighs in particular immediately protest. They are the main muscles used in slowing your progress--instead of falling face-first down the hill. Walking sticks, dragged behind with downward pressure, help quite a bit.
The biggest issue was that, due to the downward slope, our toes were constantly crammed into the toes of our shoes. For me, this was very painful. Mike fared worse though. The pain slowed him down quite a bit and I was very worried about his ability to continue back to the truck without help. (Eventually, he lost at least one of his big toenails)
The next issue was that we ran out of water before we got back to the spot where we had had lunch. It was getting dark--the sun had dropped behind the first ridge, leaving the first valley completely in shadow--and it started to get pretty cool again.
Being in a dehydrated and painful state of mind, I took very few photos of the return trip. However, just before we dropped down the first ridge to the parking area, I turned back for this last, parting shot of the hardest thing I've ever done.
We got back to the cabin around 10pm. The guys had already had dinner, but had saved some delicious trout and other items for us to eat. They had also gone out and bought San Luis pins for us as a congratulatory gift.
The next day, we had to get up early to take John to the airport in Alamosa.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Group Shot
We were so tired, this was the only group shot I had the energy to remember to take. I wish we'd taken a few more, closer to the edge.
The Summit
We reached the summit exhausted. We again switched on the radio (about 45 minutes after the first time we talked to the guys) and were met with cheers and congratulations. We had literally just gotten there when Jerry again suggested we hurry back down due to the lightning possibility. We answered in the positive, told them we'd see them that night, and switched the radio back off again.
The benchmark at the summit.
There was a pile of rocks at the summit, constructed by other climbers. As you can see, the rocks are larger than what can actually be found here, so they were brought up from a little below here. Inside the pile of rocks was a PVC pipe with a paper logbook inside. We signed our names to it and returned it to it's home. We also took in the incredible views all around us. We could see alternate routes as well.
"False Summits" and Views for Miles
The main ridge of San Luis is comprised of plate-sized chunks of granite. It's fairly wide, so it's not that dangerous. We discovered something ironic as we ascended. The ridge isn't straight. It goes up, then levels out a bit, then goes up, then levels out several times. As a result, when looking up, thinking you can see the summit "right there," you realize upon reaching that magical point that you're nowhere close to the summit. AND, when you reach the next point that you think is the summit, that isn't the summit either. This photo of Mike was taken near one of the "false summits". This is my favorite photo of the entire trip.
Support Crew
About half way up the main ridge of San Luis, we took a break and decided to turn on the 2-way radio. I switched it on and called out. We were surprised to receive an immediate response from our brother, Warren. He said that he, Jerry, Larry, Dale, and John were parked near the Continental Divide (where we'd conducted our first San Luis recon several days before). They had run into someone with a spotting scope and were looking right at us. We both quickly turned and could barely make out where they were parked. I took out my telephoto lens and took this photo. If you click and enlarge, you'll see two vehicles parked in the center of the photo (they are exactly 3.29 miles away).
Warren said we were doing a great job...then asked if we were headed back down from the summit. Mike and I looked at each other in disgust. I told him we hadn't been to the summit yet. Then Jerry got on the radio and said we should seriously consider coming back down due to the possibility of being hit by lightning. We responded in the negative and he tried again. At that point, we turned the radio back off, mounted up, and renewed our trek UP.
Warren said we were doing a great job...then asked if we were headed back down from the summit. Mike and I looked at each other in disgust. I told him we hadn't been to the summit yet. Then Jerry got on the radio and said we should seriously consider coming back down due to the possibility of being hit by lightning. We responded in the negative and he tried again. At that point, we turned the radio back off, mounted up, and renewed our trek UP.
DSLR
I had recently purchased my first DSLR camera, which was integral in creating vibrant photos like this one. (I probably took over 1000 photos that day)
Looking Back...
Breathing, as expected, was a constant battle. The weather was perfect, but the trail at this point turned vertical. Rest breaks became more frequent. At no point did we consider turning back, but we weren't happy with the prospect of the work ahead. Looking back was encouraging, as we could see nearly every step we'd already taken, knowing that "that part" was over.
Arid Views
Sparse grasses are the only terrain feature, other than rocks and dirt, along this portion of the hike.
Jokes abound as "Organ Mountain" looms in the background.
The Saddle
We took a break for some good photos in the "Saddle," which is at about 13,000'. You can see where we've come from in the background behind Mike.
I started with a coat, sweatshirt, stocking cap, and gloves. By the time we got to the 2/3 mark, I was down to a long sleeve t-shirt and a t-shirt.
So Close...(insert the rest of the cliche here)
It seemed so close, I felt we could simply run down into the valley and back up again in no time...without dying very much.
For the first time, we spotted some fellow climbers...on their way back down from the summit. This photo should put some scale to the mountain. The two climbers are in the center. You'll probably have to click and enlarge the photo to actually see them...
Lunchtime...behind schedule.
Reaching the "second ridge," we paused for a quick snack and some rest. San Luis is huge, we knew, but the closer we got, the bigger we realized it was. Also, the closer we got, the further away it seemed to get.
Referring to topo maps of the area, Mike traces our path and judges how much time it will take...
Traversing the fist Bowl
The diagonal of the trail ahead is more visible and San Luis's peak emerges once again.
San Luis is listed as one of the "least technical" or "easiest" of the Fourteeners to climb. The above view is typical of our day, but as you can see in the distance, we spent most of the 12-14-mile round trip on either side of the timberline (12,000').
At 0' (sea level), the average oxygen content of the air is 20.9%. At 10,000', it's 14.2%. At 12,000'--13.2%, 13,000'--12.7%, 14,000'--12.2%. So on average, Mike and I breathed just over half the "normal" level of oxygen we were used to for most of our hike. Add to that the level of our fitness at the time (well below average), and you get several moments of shear agony, as well as several discussions regarding our potential to die of a heart-related issue because we were in such a remote area.
First Valley
Moving across the first valley, we gradually shed our cold weather gear (top). In my backpack: trail mix, first aid kit, extra clothing, big camera, small camera, video camera, two Camel Backs full of water, plus about six full-sized plastic bottles of water.
Above, looking across the valley towards the next ridge, the trail is barely visible, moving diagonally up the slope. We continued down into a small copse of pines, the around the southern bowl. Aside from our time inside the trees, the vast, expansive views were incredible.
Above, looking across the valley towards the next ridge, the trail is barely visible, moving diagonally up the slope. We continued down into a small copse of pines, the around the southern bowl. Aside from our time inside the trees, the vast, expansive views were incredible.
Conquering San Luis
The first leg of the hike was relatively difficult, but as we crested the first ridge and viewed San Luis for the first time, we began to feel the excitement. Also, we caught up with the sun and a cloudless sky.
Freemon's!
On the highway between Creede and Lake City, we would frequently stop at Freemon's for ice cream and to experience the ecclectic contents of this unique shop. They carried various grocery items, like chips and Vienna Sausages, t-shirts, rocks that people had found in the area, post cards, etc. They also had a vast collection of hand-printed signs on the front porch. (Larry usually kept us all waiting because he had a hard time choosing the right flavor of ice cream)
Misty Day
The weather on the day we fished the stream below Pearl Lakes reminded me of Scotland. Here, Warren fishes in the mist. I had given up doing something I'm not good at in exchange for something I'm not as bad at.
The Trout Pros
John, Dale, Warren, and Jerry were the main contributors to our bounty on this day. Some people have it, and Steve, Mike, and Larry...don't.
Trout Fishing (Pearl Lakes Runoff Stream)
The JDL Crew after a long day of trout fishing below the Pearl Lakes Trout Club. We fished a meandering stream fed by several large lakes. From above, the stream resembles a slithering snake. From ground level, you can't see it until you're right on it. Larry and I caught several tiny "cut throat" trout that weren't worth keeping. But Warren, John, Jerry, and Dale caught some impressive "rainbows" that we kept. (left to right: Larry DeVault, Warren Jones, John Lonker, Steve Jones, Jerry DeVault, Mike Jones, Dale Lonker)
Lichens Create Art on Rock
I call them "lichens". After I research it and find that these aren't, I'll come back and edit this post for accuracy. Many rocks in Colorado are adorned with some kind of growth. This rock in particular has allowed several types of organisms to set up camp on it. This one was near the cabin on the bank of the Rio Grande River. However, the higher you go in altitude, the more differences you see. For instance, above the timberline, most lichens are rust-colored or even black.
Mountain Humor
Other than environmental conservation, mountain folk take little seriously. It appears that the local department of transportation employees are the same way. But I couldn't help but think there was some accuracy to this sign, seeing as how we were in the mountains and there were cattle around. I'd bet cash money that cows actually do, on occasion, fall off of mountains. Some may actually fall onto the road even, so this sign fits in with nearly every other warning sign we have to deal with from day to day.
At some point, someone really did fatally pull a vending machine down on top of themselves...right after they ate the contents of a silica gel packet.
At some point, someone really did fatally pull a vending machine down on top of themselves...right after they ate the contents of a silica gel packet.
Mountain Weather
In some areas of Colorado, you can depend on it to rain at least once every day. Wherever you go in the mountains, you have incredible views, including views of the weather. Here, the clouds break loose and shower the Rio Grande Valley with a light shower.
"Walking towards the camera, looking 'cool' sequence."
You know that sequence in "Kill Bill, Vol. 1" where the Yakuza chief, played by Lucy Lu, walks in slow motion toward the camera, flanked by her deadly minions, as really cool music plays? That's the feeling I had when I took this picture. These guys really are the epitomy of "cool". Especially Mike and Warren (left) as they carry their purchases from the Fudge Shop back to the truck.
Natural Wear and Tear from the Mountain Environment
In Creede and similar Colorado ex-mining towns, you'll notice items in various states of decay or disrepair. Most of this seems intentional. Perhaps the inhabitants allow their signs and buildings and vehicles to deteriorate in order to give tourists an "authentic" experience. Perhaps it is due to the lack of nearby Lowe's or Home Depot outlets from which to purchase repair materials. Or perhaps it's because trying to keep things looking new takes a back seat to taking full advantage of the beautiful surroundings.
For example, this "ICE" sign's worn look gives viewers a sense of rugged mountain advertising. I know I was immediately induced to purchase a bag of ice right after I took this picture. Warren and Mike talked me out of it because I had nothing to put it in, or use it on.
For example, this "ICE" sign's worn look gives viewers a sense of rugged mountain advertising. I know I was immediately induced to purchase a bag of ice right after I took this picture. Warren and Mike talked me out of it because I had nothing to put it in, or use it on.
Fishing the Headwaters
San Luis Recon
Every day, Mike & I would step away from the group and have serious discussions regarding our ability to take on the challenge--without dying. From the perspective of this photo, it didn't look "all that bad".
JDL 2008 (a.k.a. "Mancation")
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